Traveling Safely to SXM During a Pandemic

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Kelly E. Carter in SXM safe travels during a pandemic

I thought people who took international vacations during a pandemic were crazy until I traveled to SXM and lived to tell about it. Prior to jetting off to the Caribbean island of Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten in late February for nine sun-drenched days, my previous flight was 12 months prior when I spent a holiday weekend in Hawaii. For a travel junkie like myself who has visited nearly 50 countries and territories, I was shockingly surprised that not traveling outside of Northern California during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic didn’t bother me one iota.

To lessen my risk of getting the virus and still practice self-care, I was perfectly happy to take occasional, solo driving trips to places where I had never stayed overnight, such as Mendocino and Jenner – or, even safer, stay at home in my charming, picturesque town of Yountville. Yet here I am, a year since my last airplane flight, sitting on the balcony of a one-bedroom rental in Sint Maarten, the Dutch side of the island, beginning this blog post.

The reason I want to share my adventures is to let people know that traveling during the pandemic is a possibility. I wouldn’t have been so encouraged to travel had I not seen photos of several friends, relatives and colleagues who posted on social media about their trips to Mexico, Jamaica, etc., during the past few months. Of course, at the time, I thought they were insane and irresponsible for taking an international vacation (hello, non-essential!!!!!) during a pandemic. But, as far as I know, these people who traveled outside of the States all returned healthy.

Is non-essential travel wise during a pandemic? Should you do it? Those are individual questions, and one must evaluate their own unique circumstances to make that decision. Are you putting others in your household or workplace at risk? Does it matter if you’ve been vaccinated? What if you’ve already had COVID-19? Are you willing to follow the safety measures put in place at your destination and will doing so mean less fun?

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Mullet Bay in Sint Maarten, the Dutch side of SXM

I’ve been known to roll the dice in life whether it’s giving up a cushy job at USA Today to move to Italy by myself at the age of 40 or not following the advice of a university professor who suggested I don’t put all my career eggs in a sportswriter’s basket since female sportswriters were practically unheard of at the time. When I found out in January that a sorority sister whom I’ve traveled internationally with before, Maureen, would be on SXM, I figured now was the time for me to dust off my passport. Having a travel buddy who was as fastidious about COVID-19 safety measures as I was crucial.

Maureen and I were on the same page when it came to safety and openly discussed everything before I arrived. Although she had rented a two-bedroom oceanfront apartment, I breathed a sigh of relief when she suggested I get my own accommodations. I rented a studio (and upon arrival was upgraded to a one-bedroom!) at the same resort. We agreed to only get together outdoors. We rented a convertible car and wore our masks in the car, which must have been quite the sight considering convertibles are a rarity on the island. With details regarding lodging, socializing and car rental out of the way, I double-masked up, put on a face shield (she had recommended which one to buy) and boarded a flight for the first time in just over a year. Watch the video at the end of this post to see what a grand time we had soaking up the sun, enjoying SXM’s gastronomy, being on the scene at events for locals and living large with a fabulous, private sunset cruise. I also include some of the COVID-19 safety precautions that SXM takes.

lobster salad at Kakao Beach Club SXM
The perfect beach lunch: lobster salad, fries and Rosé at Kakao in SXM

I was blown away by the food on the island, which has been called the culinary capital of the Caribbean. From the Italian fare at Sale & Pepe in the Simpson Bay marina to the Creole food at Villa Royale in Grand-Case to the traditional French cuisine with Asian and Caribbean influences at Mario Bistrot at The Cliff in Cupecoy to the sushi and tapas at Rainbow Café in Grand-Case to the beach food at Karakter on the Simpson Bay Beach, I ate so well. I’ve been back home in Yountville, known as the culinary capital of Napa Valley, for more than a week and still dream of the lobster salad at Kakao, a beach club in Orient Bay in St. Martin whose food, service or adult beverages never disappoint. The colors, flavors, freshness and deliciousness of this lobster salad paired perfectly with a bottle of Rosé and the aqua blue waters to make for an impeccable beach lunch.

I have to give a shoutout to Cedric, a Frenchman who took such great care of us during our three trips to Kakao. When I first met Cedric and I told him I lived in Napa Valley, he was very eager to show Maureen and me photos of his trip to Napa Valley to visit a fellow Frenchman who works at Opus One. When I asked him which wineries he visited when he was in Napa, he retorted none.

“Why would I? I’m French!” he said emphatically.

French people do not come to America to drink the wine, he explained to me in a way that only those who find humor in the snobbish attitude the French often exude could appreciate. During my next visit I learned that Cedric had actually tasted some Napa Valley wine in downtown Napa and that he liked a Syrah from Napa Valley. Whew! There is hope for Napa Valley wine.

Sunset Cruise SXM

When I posted my vacation photos on social media after returning home, it was amazing how many Facebook friends and Instagram followers replied that St. Martin is their favorite island. This was my first time staying on the island. I may have made a day trip when on Anguilla a decade ago or maybe I didn’t. One thing is likely: I will return to St. Martin.

Traveling to the Caribbean from California is a huge time commitment. One way was a combined 12 hours of flying and a layover – and then there’s the four-hour time difference to quickly adjust to. Although it’s so much easier to go to Hawaii or Mexico from California, I’ve always preferred the Caribbean because I generally see people who look like me. I remember when I went to Aruba in the 1990s and people were shocked to learn that I traveled all the way from L.A. To date, I’ve visited 16 Caribbean destinations, traveling from California to 10 of those places and from New York, where I lived for four years, for the other six.

I’d go back to SXM in a heartbeat despite the insects who must have loved the wine and rum punch in my blood (my bug bites are still healing) and the bothersome peddlers on the beach who try to make a living while I try to relax. The stunning beaches, aromas of BBQ when you drive through the streets on a Saturday afternoon and diversity more than make up for the biting bugs and vendors. The blend of European culture and Caribbean flair is unparalleled. SXM is like a small city (Beautylicious is by far the best beauty supply store I’ve ever stepped foot inside of, and I passed by the biggest Ace Hardware store I’ve ever seen.) without the stoplights while still being a tropical paradise that offers nightlife, street food, warm people and a dollop of grit with a dose of luxuriousness. All this combines to make for the perfect vacation spot whether you’re traveling during a pandemic or not.

Now it’s showtime! Check out the video: